When a brand-new watch brand emerges from the creative and independent British watch scene, watch enthusiasts will naturally pay attention – especially when this brand was founded during the pandemic, by the product designer Richard Benc who has a passion for watches. The young British micro-brand Studio Underd0g drew inspiration from mid-20th-century racing chronographs.
“Underdog” (the underperformer) usually refers to a dark horse, a defeated underdog, or an underdog that is not favored. The founder, Richard, believes that in the traditional watchmaking industry filled with skilled artisans and industry giants, the emerging British micro brand he founded is precisely a “weakling” – it challenges the status quo and rigid aesthetics of the industry with bold and determined determination, which is the core of the brand’s spirit. The style choice of replacing the letter “o” with the number “0” (that is, “Underd0g”) is inspired by the habit of game communities using numbers instead of letters to create unique and easily recognizable usernames. As Richard Benz explains: “When I entered the vast watchmaking industry, I was also a weakling; the ‘0’ in ‘d0g’ comes from the convention of using numbers to replace letters in games.”Let’s discuss the design, wearability, and movement of this watch, as well as why it is so sought-after by watch enthusiasts.
Brand Image and Philosophy: Hardcore Craftsmanship, Playful Aesthetics
Studio Underd0g is a British micro brand led by enthusiasts. The brand’s philosophy is clear: the core hardware will never compromise, and the exterior design is bold and innovative. 01 SERIES is the best example, retaining the complete structure and reliable manual movement of the vintage racing chronograph, while giving the watch personality through thematic color schemes. Most traditional racing watch styles are conservative, but it breaks the conventional framework with a gradient dial, vivid color schemes, and each new release sells out quickly.Based in the UK, Studio Underd0g is a quintessential enthusiast-driven microbrand.
Unlike brands that obsessively replicate vintage watches or simply pile on hardcore technical specifications, Studio Underd0g adheres to a philosophy of “uncompromising seriousness where it counts, and bold creativity where it shines.” The 01SERIES perfectly embodies this ethos: it retains the authentic architecture of a vintage racing chronograph and a well-finished manual-winding movement, while infusing the watch with a vibrant personality through imaginative, thematic colorways.
Design and Aesthetics：Gradient dial, depth, and playful details.
01 SERIES adopts the classic double Bicompax racing chronograph layout, but the details are full of ingenuity. The dial is a double-layer gradient sandblasted finish, presenting different textures as the light changes. Styles such as watermelon and desert sky all come with thematic stories.
On the left is the 30-minute chronograph display, on the right is the small seconds display, and the outer ring is marked with speed measurement scales. Point-shaped night-time hour markers and night-time bar-shaped hands ensure readability in low light. The dial text is restrained, not disrupting the overall aesthetic. Different styles are paired with contrasting secondary dials, providing maximum visual recognition.The interesting naming of the series and the design of the dial are in harmony, forming a unique brand style, attracting a large number of watch enthusiasts who like relaxed designs.
Caliber and Performance: Customized Seiko Column Wheel Manual Chronograph Caliber
The wristwatch is equipped with the customized Seiko ST-1901B manual column wheel chronograph caliber, featuring a crown for fine adjustment and individual brand calibration. The oscillation frequency is 21,600 beats per hour. It can store energy for 50 hours in a stationary state and operate the stopwatch for approximately 45 hours.
The brand did not choose a cheaper cam-based caliber, maintaining the hardware standard. The manual winding brings a unique sense of ceremony, and the caliber plate has Geneva wave decoration. The stopwatch button has a crisp and smooth feel, and it belongs to an excellent level among micro-watches at the same price range.
Human Experience: The Feeling of Wearing 01 SERIES
Unlike the heavy traditional chronographs, 01 SERIES is suitable for daily wear. The cowhide strap is soft and can quickly fit the wrist. The quick-release clasp supports free replacement of the strap and easy style switching.
The timing operation follows traditional logic: the start/stop button is at 2 o’clock, and the reset button is at 4 o’clock.
The gradient dial surface has a significant difference in appearance under indoor and outdoor light conditions, not only as a timing tool, but also as a wristpiece art piece. It breaks the serious and rigid impression of chronographs and hides a relaxed design core beneath the solid caliber.
Comparison and Value: Market Positioning of 01SERIES SERIES
Wristwatch enthusiasts often compare Studio Underd0g 01SERIES with many retro racing chronograph watches. It’s not that they have exactly the same appearance; rather, they share the same design origin: the racing chronograph culture of the mid-20th century.
01SERIES offers a column wheel manual chronograph + double-layer gradient creative dial at a price much lower than that of traditional retro chronograph brands. This makes it highly attractive for enthusiasts who want to purchase a column wheel chronograph but do not want to bear the high premium.
Of course, there are also obvious differences between them. Traditional retro chronograph brands place more emphasis on historical heritage and the inheritance of antique watches, while 01SERIES belongs to contemporary independent design. It places creativity and community culture in an important position, which is precisely the characteristic that the new generation of young collectors love.
Conclusion: A fun modern retro chronograph watch
The Studio Underd0g 01 SERIES does not attempt to replicate antique racing chronographs. Instead, it extracts the core charm of retro chronographs and reinterprets them with contemporary creativity. The gradient-themed dial, friendly and balanced case size, and finely adjusted column-wheel chronograph movement together create a miniature brand chronograph watch that far exceeds the performance of similar priced competitors.
For collectors who appreciate retro racing styles, enjoy creative designs, and value the robustness of the movement, the 01 SERIES series represents the imaginative works of the British miniature brand. This series costs approximately $750 (excluding tax), balancing playability and practicality, and is not just for collection and appreciation.
Whether you are trying your hand at a manual chronograph for the first time or are in search of a unique and story-driven daily chronograph, the Studio Underd0g 01 SERIES is worth giving a try.
What can you expect from a Studio Underd0g watch in real-world use?
Since most Studio Underd0g watches (the 01, 02, and 03 series) are manually wound, the daily maintenance routine is as follows:
You give the crown 20 to 40 turns each morning, establishing a “connection” with the watch on your wrist. This is precisely the feeling Benz intended to create.
If you frequently use the chronograph function (especially on the 01 series), you will notice a reduction in power reserve (e.g., 45 hours when the chronograph is engaged).
For watches with a 5 ATM water resistance rating (01/03), protection is limited to hand-washing and exposure to rain; swimming or showering poses a risk. While watches rated at 10 ATM (02) offer greater peace of mind, the condition of the seals and the specific usage scenario remain the decisive factors for water resistance performance.
FAQs About Studio Underd0g
What movement does the 01SERIES use?
It is powered by a custom Seagull ST-1901B manual-winding column-wheel chronograph movement featuring a swan-neck regulator and a 50-hour power reserve.
Can I wear the 01SERIES while swimming?
The watch has a water resistance rating of 50 meters, suitable only for withstanding everyday rain and splashes; it is not suitable for water activities such as swimming or diving.
Why are Studio Underd0g watches “never out of stock” yet still hard to find?
It is because the brand operates using a “pre-order window”: during this period, orders are accepted with unlimited inventory, but once the window closes, the brand switches to production and fulfillment mode. So, it is not a case of being “out of stock,” but rather the “window being closed.”
What are the most notable differences between the 01SERIES Gen3 and the earlier 01SERIES models?
The Gen3 features a slimmer case (12.9mm), an updated crown with improved winding feel, a larger sapphire case back, and the addition of “Assembled in Great Britain” text on the dial.
